Tokyo, neighbourhood by neighbourhood

Neon chaos, tiny bars, and a surprisingly serene garden

Old Tokyo's front door, best before the tour buses arrive

The crossing is just the cover page

Museums, market chaos, and Tokyo's great public park

Vintage shops, live music, and the best curry in Tokyo

Sumo town on the Sumida, with Hokusai and a tidal garden next door

The north side's giant hub, with Frank Lloyd Wright and a tram round the corner

The Tokyo that survived, cemetery walks and all

Teen fashion theatre next door to Tokyo's grandest shrine

Tokyo's grand shopping street, best at its counters and old coffee houses

Tokyo's coffee district, around a Meiji garden and old Fukagawa

Canal-side cafes and the best evening sakura in Tokyo

Tokyo's book town, fuelled by curry and old coffee houses

Makers, roasters and old granaries on the Sumida, a short walk from Asakusa

Electric Town, eight floors at a time

Punk, vintage and Awa Odori, one stop west of Nakano

Tora-san's hometown, a carved temple and the last rowed ferry in Tokyo

Art triangle by day, skyline views by night

Where Tokyo actually goes out to eat

Cobbled lanes with a French accent

Daniel's stop on the Keio Line

Two stops from Shibuya, an izakaya maze and Tokyo's other tram

Jindaiji's temple, soba, and a personal landmark

Inokashira Park, harmonica-alley bars, and west-Tokyo ease

Tokyo's calmest stylish quarter

One stop over, where the locals drink