Omoide Yokocho

What the guides say about Omoide Yokocho

Evening in Shinjuku. About seven minutes on the JR Yamanote line. Start in Omoide Yokocho, the lantern-lit alley of tiny yakitori counters pressed against the tracks by Shinjuku station's west exit, where a dozen skewers and a beer at a six-seat counter is one of Tokyo's essential meals. Then walk fifteen minutes east through the neon to Golden Gai, six alleys holding more than 200 bars, most seating fewer than ten people. Look for the bars without a cover charge sign, or with one clearly posted, duck in wherever there's a seat, and talk to whoever's next to you. It's the best single evening in Tokyo, and it needs no plan beyond turning up.

Evening. About seven minutes on the Yamanote line to Shinjuku. Omoide Yokocho is a lantern-lit alley of yakitori counters wedged against the tracks by the west exit, where a dozen skewers at a six-seat bar is an essential Tokyo meal. Then walk east through the neon to Golden Gai, six narrow lanes of bars that seat eight or ten people each. Pick one with a cover charge posted clearly or none at all, take the open stool and see where the conversation goes. The Shinjuku neighbourhood guide has more on the ward if you want the wider picture.

Evening. It's three stops on the Yamanote line to Shinjuku. Eat at Omoide Yokocho, the smoke-filled lane of yakitori counters by the west exit, then walk fifteen minutes through Kabukicho's neon to Golden Gai, where more than 200 bars fit into six alleys and few of them seat more than a dozen. Look for a posted cover charge, take whatever stool is free, and let the night run. The Shinjuku neighbourhood guide has more on the ward, from the Metropolitan Government Building's free observation deck down to the last bar.